Dog on the Move

A information to consuming and consuming alongside London’s Regent’s Canal


This text is a part of a information to London from FT Globetrotter

I used to be born in a home solely steps from the shores of the Pacific Ocean, so water has all the time been my aspect. When the chance to maneuver to a flat on London’s Regent’s Canal got here up one 12 months into the pandemic, I jumped on the probability. The huge, wild expanse of the Pacific couldn’t be extra completely different from the mossy murk of this Nineteenth-century city canal, however one way or the other being near water felt like a balm to the chaos round me because the world shut down and haltingly reopened.

I’ve spent numerous hours wandering the sting of this 8.6 mile waterway and its 12 locks prior to now two years, day-after-day and in each season, noticing new particulars and, as restrictions eased, attending to know the numerous locations to cease and revel in a drink, a chew to eat or perhaps a lush, multi-course feast alongside the way in which. Strolling the complete size of the canal with out stopping will take about three hours, however taken at a leisurely tempo with breaks alongside the way in which, it may be made right into a full-day tour.

Listed below are a couple of of my favorite locations to cease both straight by the canal or a couple of steps away, listed from east to west, although that is under no circumstances an exhaustive checklist. It begins on the Thames close to the mouth of Limehouse Basin, the place the canal begins, and continues north and east via Hackney, Islington, Camden and Primrose Hill.

The Grapes

76 Slender Avenue, London E14 8BP

  • Good for: A drink or pub meal with prime views of the Thames

  • Not so good for: Households. Solely over-18s are allowed in

  • FYI: There’s a well-attended pub quiz on Monday nights. No bookings, so get there early to safe a spot

  • Instructions: Stroll three minutes east from the doorway to Limehouse Basin alongside Slender Avenue

  • Web site; Map

Low tide behind The Grapes on the Thames © David Taylor/Shutterstock

This Thameside pub close to Limehouse Basin boasts greater than 400 years of historical past and fantastic views over the river. In winter it’s an excellent spot to cease off throughout a blustery riverside stroll, however in summer season the perfect seats are on the beautiful little again deck, perched barely above lapping waves at excessive tide (although you’ll should get there early to seize a spot on a balmy night time).

The watering gap is co-owned by Sir Ian McKellen, the British thespian of Lord of the Rings fame, his former accomplice Sean Mathias and the Russian-British media magnate Lord (Evgeny) Lebedev, proprietor of The Unbiased and Night Commonplace, who has thus far averted sanctions within the UK, elevating questions on his hyperlinks to outgoing prime minister Boris Johnson. Nonetheless, politics stops on the water’s edge — or a minimum of might be put apart for a second over a superb pint and a wonderful view. The pub menu options tasty takes on pub classics like fish and chips and burgers, in addition to some extra Mediterranean and vegetarian choices.

The Palm Tree 

127 Grove Street, London E3 5BH

  • Good for: Stay music and a singular environment within the night that’s like getting into a bygone period

  • Not so good for: Getting a full meal. Solely bar snacks comparable to nuts and crisps are on supply

  • FYI: Money solely. Present up with notes in hand, as a result of the closest ATM is a little bit of a trek

  • Instructions: The pub is seen to your east from the towpath, simply south of the little lake and Ecology Pavilion in Mile Finish Park

  • No web site (in line with the character of the place) — tel: +4420 8980 2918; Map

Strolling into this freestanding pub in the midst of Mile Finish Park is like stepping via a portal into one other time. A lone survivor of the Blitz in an space the place the encompassing buildings have been flattened, this East Finish boozer has been run by the identical homeowners for nearly 50 years. It’s a good place to select up a daytime pint by the canal, however the true attraction is the weekend jazz nights, bathed in a glow of crimson lights and led by a band of older musicians, immortalised within the fantastic collection The Final of the Crooners by London-based photographer Tom Oldham. This can be a vestige of an east London that’s disappearing — a very particular spot.

Pavilion Café

Victoria Park, Previous Ford Street, London E9 7DE

  • Good for: Standouts are the baked items and the Sri Lankan breakfast

  • Not so good for: Ample desk area on weekends, and the standard of the coffees can fluctuate

  • FYI: Open 7am to 4.30pm from Monday to Wednesday, 8am to 7pm from Thursday to Sunday

  • Instructions: Flip east off the towpath after it goes beneath Previous Ford Street into Victoria Park. You’ll see the lake. Comply with the southern shore round till you see the pavilion

  • Web site; Map

People sitting on the grass in the sun outside the Pavilion Cafe in Victoria Park in east London

The grassy area outdoors the Pavilion Café in east London’s Victoria Park © Nathaniel Noir/Alamy

Perched on the boating lake in Victoria Park, this native favorite is rammed with runners, wanderers and canine walkers on weekends, who crowd the lakeside terrace and bench-strewn knoll close by for brunch, lunch and occasional. The unique location of the well-known Pavilion Bakery group, which has outposts round east London and in Cornwall, the café serves top-notch baked items and pleasant Sri Lankan breakfasts, a legacy of proprietor Rob Inexperienced’s earlier success with Sri Lankan tea stalls in Borough and close by Broadway markets.

Ombra

1 Vyner Avenue, London E2 9DG

  • Good for: Ingenious Italian set menus provided for dinner from Thursday to Saturday

  • Not so good for: Inside design snobs. The area is kind of utilitarian

  • FYI: The fairly priced tasting menu at £45 per individual is your greatest wager

  • Instructions: Exit the towpath at Mare Avenue. Ombra is to your left at road degree

  • Web site; Map

Diners on the terrace at Ombra restaurant

The terrace at Ombra: ‘Considered one of London’s most attention-grabbing Italian eating places’ © Brian Dandridge

I’ll admit that I’ve walked by Ombra for years with out venturing inside. This has proved an oversight: it seems that is one in all London’s most attention-grabbing Italian eating places. In my defence, the premises are odd, constructed for retail on the entrance to an enclave of mixed-use warehouses, whereas the terrace is basically encased in plastic sheeting on a very practical stretch of Mare Avenue. For the much less superficial and higher knowledgeable, the restaurant gives a wonderful vantage level over the canal to sip a glass of wine and eat recent pasta, which you’ll be able to watch being made as you stroll within the door.

Café Cecilia

Canal Place, 32 Andrews Street, London E8 4FX

  • Good for: High quality meals and people-watching 

  • Not so good for: An impromptu dinner or if the thought of collaborating in a “scene” makes you get away in hives 

  • FYI: The restaurant is booked out weeks prematurely within the night

  • Instructions: Cross the highway from the towpath as you move the previous Hackney gasworks towers. Café Cecilia is true there

  • Web site; Map 

View of an old gasworks through a window at Café Cecilia

Stylish Café Cecilia is reverse the previous Hackney gasworks © Maureen Evans

Max Rocha’s buzzy up to date restaurant opened on an unremarkable stretch of highway east of Broadway Market final 12 months, reverse the previous Hackney gasworks, however it nonetheless must be booked weeks prematurely to safe a desk for dinner. Breakfast and lunch are a barely much less aggressive affair. The decor is austere with white partitions, darkish flooring and unadorned tables — which doesn’t do a lot to melt the restaurant’s new-build traces — however the meals is easy and creative, together with staples comparable to recent pasta and cheese toasties amid a repeatedly rotating menu.

A robust number of pure wine choices is readily available to scrub it down (east London is constant, if nothing else). Rocha’s pedigree as a chef — his résumé consists of stints at St John and the River Café — has helped draw the crowds, to not point out his connections to the style set through household: his father John and sister Simone are each distinguished designers. My vote is to e-book one of many new pavement tables which have sprung up for summer season.

Broadway Market

Broadway Market, London E8

  • Good for: Window procuring and meals stalls promoting the whole lot from scrumptious desserts to Ghanaian stews

  • Not so good for: Those that hate hipsters, crowds or waxed moustaches

  • FYI: The market is on Saturdays, however the road is way quieter on weekdays and lined with outlets and eating places which are additionally price your time

  • Instructions: Flip north up Broadway Market because it crosses the canal. The market runs as much as London Fields

  • Web site; Map

Broadway Market is both pretentiously gentrified or energetic and bustling, relying in your perspective and temper. The final eel and pie store on the stretch of highway resulting in London Fields moved to Essex in 2021, whereas a Planet Natural — a lot maligned by some locals — opened in early 2022. There are some gems, nonetheless, among the many property brokers and Aesops: notably, butcher shop-cum-restaurant Hill & Szrok, fishmonger Fin & Flounder, Pavilion Bakery (a sibling of the above-mentioned Victoria Park café) and udon joint Koya Ko. The Dove pub can be nice for people-watching when the market is in full swing on Saturdays.

Toconoco

Unit A, 28 Hertford Street, London N1 5QT

  • Good for: Lunch and for bringing youngsters

  • Not so good for: Working in your laptop computer or taking calls. There’s often numerous playtime hubbub 

  • FYI: Closed on Tuesdays and shuts day by day at 5.30pm

  • Instructions: Flip north off the primary canal towpath to stroll up Kingsland Basin — the café is the far finish of the west facet

  • Web site; Map

A bowl of chicken yakitori on a table at Toconoco

A bowl of rooster yakitori at Toconoco © #toconoco

A hidden oasis on Kingsland Basin close to Haggerston, Toconoco serves easy, scrumptious Japanese fare comparable to udon, soba and onigiri full of a wide range of fillings. Truffles, together with a day by day cheese cake and ujikin (a form of matcha-flavoured snow cone) and a wide range of teas (I’m keen on the buckwheat) and coffees spherical out the choices. The café is designed to be kid-friendly with play areas carpeted with Astroturf, which might be each lovable and little loud relying on the day. Out of doors tables supply a calmer respite if playtime is especially boisterous.

Towpath

42 De Beauvoir Crescent, London N1 5SB

  • Good for: Drinks and meals in a dreamy waterside setting 

  • Not so good for: Unhealthy climate and those that hate a queue. There are not any indoor areas, no bookings and there’s often a wait on weekends

  • FYI: Dinner is just served on Thursdays and Fridays from 6.30pm. Towpath is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays 

  • Instructions: Immediately on the towpath (therefore the identify), simply alongside from Kingsland Basin. Can’t miss it!

  • Web site; Map

Towpath opens from spring to autumn in an out of doors area straight on the canal path, with an awning and a few coated tables tucked in alcoves. The meals is seasonal with Mediterranean aptitude, served on mismatched china and enamelware, and the menu is up to date day by day. Some favourites endure, nonetheless: notably, the radishes with grilled bread and taramasalata, and courgette and white bean stew completed with a bit of creme fraîche. The oat walnut cookie is way extra scrumptious than one thing so homespun has any proper to be. Anticipate queues on weekends.

Studio Kitchen

49-50 Eagle Wharf Street, London N1 7ED

  • Good for: Burgers and drinks on the water on heat days

  • Not so good for: Fastidious diners — it is a informal affair

  • FYI: A transformed barge, opened throughout the pandemic, gives a extra formal eating space, with dinner service from Thursday to Saturday

  • Instructions: Depart the towpath at Packington Bridge and cross to the south facet of the canal. The doorway is thru Holborn Studios on Eagle Wharf Street

  • Web site; Map

A platter of burgers and chips at Studio Kitchen

Head to Studio Kitchen for burgers on the water

The doorway to this canalside bar is a bit of difficult to seek out, which has helped preserve it underneath the radar. Situated within the advanced hooked up to Holborn Studios, a widely known pictures studio, the bar and restaurant gives some vibrant tables straight on the canal that are perfect for night drinks in the summertime. The menu skews in the direction of southern US and barbecue, and the fried rooster sandwich is among the greatest round. The seats on the water might be barely bouncy as folks stroll by, relying which spot you get, an impact that may be magnified after a couple of drinks.

Baltic Barge

REGENT’S CANAL, LONDON

  • Good for: Unpretentious, scrumptious meals

  • Not so good for: Those that don’t eat fish or seafood

  • FYI: If you’re not averse to tentacles, the octopus is the standout

  • Instructions: The barge’s location modifications; discover out the place it’s through Instagram or Fb

  • Web site

This Turkish-style floating seafood store takes fish and chips to a complete new degree. The crimson painted fishing boat strikes places, however has been noticed in Metropolis Street Basin, close to Broadway Market and in Hackney Wick. Calmly fried, gently spiced recent fish and seafood comparable to octopus and squid come spiced, spritzed with lemon, completely golden and sizzling, with chips and a crisp salad. The situation of this moveable feast might be tracked through Instagram and different social media handles.

Sons + Daughters

Unit 119a, Coal Drops Yard, London N1C 4DQ

  • Good for: Sandwiches — big, superb sandwiches. Additionally beer

  • Not so good for: The gluten-avoidant

  • FYI: This can be a very informal, walk-in state of affairs. Open 10am to 6pm day by day

  • Instructions: Flip north off the canal into Coal Drops Yard as you move King’s Cross/St Pancras to the south. Sons + Daughters is situated on the backside of the ramp that results in Granary Sq.

  • Web site; Map

A hand holds a bacon sandwich made by Sons + Daughters near King’s Cross

Sons + Daughters close to King’s Cross is the realm’s Huge Sandwich Central © #s_and_d_wich

The renaissance of the previously dodgy space round King’s Cross and St Pancras practice stations continues apace. Simply down the walkway from the water park in entrance of Central Saint Martins — a scrum on a latest sunny weekend of jubilant kids and vogue college students on studio breaks — is Sons + Daughters. Maybe it’s the residual North American in me, however I miss correct diners, and this retro-styled sandwich bar in Coal Drops Yard goes some option to filling that craving. The sandwiches can solely be described as chunky, full of extremely flavoured components on thick-cut bread, whereas the soft-serve ice cream and beer felt refreshing on the time, if not a lot half an hour later within the 30C warmth. The vegan sandwich that includes “magic mayo”, chickpeas, crisped kale and pickles is a favorite — even for this omnivore — as is the soy and wasabi-inflected roast rooster.

Tsujiri Camden 

Unit 163, Water Lane, Hawley Wharf, London NW1 8JZ

  • Good for: Your candy tooth

  • Not so good for: Savoury cravings or anybody who hates inexperienced tea/matcha

  • FYI: There are additionally places in Chinatown in London’s West Finish, Manchester, Liverpool and Newcastle 

  • Instructions: Duck off the towpath into the newer Camden Market advanced at Hawley Wharf. Tsujiri is on the primary degree walkway parallel to the canal

  • Web site; Map

I’ll come straight out with it: I’m biased in opposition to Camden. That is in all probability not honest and based mostly virtually solely on some actually horrible nights out in my early London years earlier than I knew higher. Camden Market is equally tainted. Nevertheless, amid the stands slinging mediocre burgers and waffles drowning in Nutella to vacationers and membership youngsters is Tsujiri, a Japanese dessert store that has the perfect matcha soft-serve within the capital. It’s the good jade inexperienced, not too candy and ever so barely smoky. There are sundaes and floats for the adventurous, however on this I’m a purist: an unadorned little cup is the proper antidote to the warmth and crowds in summer season.

The Engineer

65 Gloucester Avenue, London NW1 8JH

  • Good for: Drinks within the expansive backyard and refined pub meals 

  • Not so good for: Late-night partying. Transfer on to Camden if that’s the way in which your night is heading

  • FYI: Reserving is beneficial for meals, particularly for Sunday lunch 

  • Instructions: Exit the canal towpath north-west on to Gloucester Avenue. The pub is on the nook of the subsequent highway

  • Web site; Map

The Engineer pub’s flowery beer garden

The Engineer’s flowery beer backyard ‘stands in distinction to the close by chaos of central Camden’

The principle drawback of this Nineteenth-century pub in Primrose Hill issues flowers. Particularly, one room with actually horrible floral wallpaper. In any other case this well-established gastropub boasts a beautiful menu and a verdant beer backyard that stands in distinction to the close by chaos of central Camden, although it does replenish rapidly on sunny weekends. The beer choice can be diversified, and the pub tends to be stuffed with a mixture of carousing Camden acolytes and Primrose Hill locals with equally prim canine.

The Albert 

11 Princess Street, London NW1 8JR

  • Good for: Relaxed drinks within the spacious backyard

  • Not so good for: The individuals who needed to redevelop it into flats

  • FYI: Anecdotal proof suggests the meals right here is sweet, however the creator didn’t have the prospect to pattern it herself

  • Instructions: Exit the canal towpath north in the direction of Princess Street simply earlier than you hit Regent’s Park Street. The pub is ready on a nook one road again from the waterway.

  • Web site; Map

Beforehand referred to as The Prince Albert, this neighbourhood institution shut down in 2014 and was slated for redevelopment as flats earlier than a neighborhood marketing campaign helped it to reopen in 2020. The constructing itself is gorgeous, with a bottle-green tiled exterior, colored window panes and a good-looking wood bar with a wide selection of beers and wines. The again backyard is a stunning place to retreat with associates or a e-book when it’s quieter, with warmth lamps above most tables for colder seasons.

Do you have got a favorite pit-stop on London’s city waterways? Inform us within the feedback

Comply with FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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